![]() In to the 100 degree F water in the sink. Timer is started, color developer is poured into my metal tank Once the developer is pre warmed then I begin the processing. I keep my 500cc color developer bottle there forġ0-15 minutes so that the developer is warmed up to about 103 I mix hot and cold water in the bottle and adjust it to aboutġ05 degree F. I also use a large plastic bottle with big oppening at the top. Slightly in 3-1/2 minutes of color development time. The sink and use a thermometer to make sure it is slightly overġ00 degree F before processing. I have used my bathroom sink as the temperature bath when doing Hold the temperature steady for five minutes or so, you're set.īut still, I usually find it's cheaper and easier to take my I bought it for the voltmeter functions,īut it also happens to be the best darkroom thermometer I'veĪs in B&W, once the development is finished, the remaining stepsĪre far more forgiving of temperature variance. I use a Fluke 16 voltmeter with thermocouple The only tricky part is finding a thermometer that will accurately I can easily add a bit of warm water when it drops down to 99.8. Mass there that it will hold its temperature for a few minutes, and If I fill the sink with 100.0 degree water, there's enough For temperatureĬontrol, I just use the kitchen sink with its hot and cold running I use it inĪ small stainless steel tank, using hand inversion. I've used the Jobo/Tetenal C41 press kit, as well. If you've got more questions, feel free to email me. Once I start processing, the action of moving bottles and the tank in and out of the water is sufficient to provide circulation. These cost about $30 and I decided it was unnecessary for my tank. I usually just stir it with my fingers, but for better results you could get a small pump from the pet store. You need to circulate the water around the tank to achieve a uniform temperature. Once you figure out where on the dial that temperature is, tape the dial so you don't have to mess with it in the future. After 15 min, plug in the heater, and then adjust the temperature dial until you achieve the water temp you need for processing. This is critical because it allows the thermostat to adjust. Let the heater sit in the water (before you plug it in) for about 15 min. To use the tank, first fill it up with hot water from the tap with a temperature close to your desired final temperature. The lid keeps them upright and in the locations you want them. I first tried using the tank without the lid, but the bottles wouldn't stand up. After the caulk dried my tub was water tight.Ĭut circles out of the lid just larger than your chemical bottles and tank, and make a small one for a thermometer. Wear gloves because you can't get the stuff off your hands. This was the very gooey stuff in the squeeze tube. Then I sealed around the heater both on the inside and outside of the tub with the best bathroom caulk I could find. With a hole saw, I drilled a hole in the middle bottom of the short side of the tub, and put the heater through it. I don't recall which brand I have, but it is not a fully submersible heater. You need one that doesn't have a precalibrated temperature scale since those only go up to about 90degF. You need a fairly high powered one because you want it to rapidly adjust to temperature changes. From the local pet shop, get an aquarium heater. ![]() You can get one (with a lid) that is ~10" deep, 18" long, and 12" wide. Target or Kmart carry plastic storage tubs designed to hold sweaters. I needed a cheaper solution, so I built my own tempering bath. You're results with one should be excellent. The 'simplest' solution is to purchase a Jobo processor. I've done E6, not C41, but the temperature requirements are similar. ![]()
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